Here you will find the tools and equipment you will need to start your own healthy garden. Here you will find information on how to make your own tools, gardening 'How-To's' and tips, and recommended supplies that you can purchase, right on this site, to get you going. Search in the search box below for a particular item, or browse through for tips and ideas. Happy gardening!
What you will need:
• 8-oz. yogurt cups
• Permanent marker
• Scissors
• White plastic labels
• Wooden labels
When it comes to gardening, we all need to remember what we planted and where. Nursery plants generally come with labels, but if you start plants from seeds, get plants from friends, or want to replace a broken or illegible label, you'll have to supply your own.
Wooden labels are inexpensive and you can write on them with just about anything. They are also biodegradable, so they soon rot in contact with soil, and rarely last longer than one season. As they weather, they also become difficult to read. On the upside, when you are through with them, you can just toss them on the compost heap.
Plastic labels are inexpensive, and they generally last longer than wood (up to three years before exposure to sun and frost make them brittle). Write on them with a permanent marker. After a year or two, you'll need to write names again as they fade in sunlight.
If you like to recycle and you're not fussy about the look of your labels, you can make your own from things you would otherwise throw away. Yogurt cups are a good example. Simply cut the sides into strips with points at the ends.
The fertilizer bag label contains much useful information. Here are some tips on how to read the label:
A description of the brand name of the plant food or fertilizer is at the top. Directly under that will be three numbers. Each number will be separated by a dash such as 10-10-10. These three numbers stand for the percentages of nitrogen(N), phosphorus(P), and potassium(K) in the fertilizer.
The first number is nitrogen (N). Nitrogen can be found in three particular fertilizers. The first, nitrate nitrogen is a very soluble form of nitrogen. The next, ammoniacal nitrogen is less soluble, and insoluble nitrogen is very slow to release. Nitrogen is the most frequently needed element in most garden soils. You can tell that your soil needs nitrogen when your plants show a pale yellow in their leaves and they lack vigor.
The next number on the fertilizer bag stands for phosphorus (P). This element is important for producing healthy roots and maturing crops. Deficiencies sometimes show up as red stems.
The third number is potassium (K), or potash. It's a very important component for the structural strength of plants.
After reading the three major fertilizer components, trace or minor elements will be listed. These elements are generally needed in lesser quantities. They include Iron(Fe), Magnesium(Mg), Copper(Cu), Zinc(Zn), Boron(B), Sulfur(S), and Calcium(Ca).
Lastly, you will find a list of the materials that the different elements are derived from. Before using fertilizers, you should test the soil to determine what it's lacking. Also, different plants have different needs so what type and how often you fertilize can vary greatly.
General-purpose fertilizers are usually quickly available to the plants soon after they are applied and watered in. They typically do not last very long, so they must be reapplied several times during the growing season. If carelessly used, they can burn the plants. Never apply to dry soil.
Low-release fertilizers are an effective way to fertilize plants. These materials release fertilizer over a long period of time. These fertilizers are very useful for gardeners who only want to fertilize once in a growing season an they rarely burn the plants. However, they can be relatively expensive.
Water-soluble fertilizers are instantly available to the plant. They are frequently applied with a watering can and are absorbed by both the roots and leaves. They're most useful when a quick effect is desired. However, they are rapidly used up by plants, so in turn they must be applied on a regular basis.
Natural organic fertilizers are usually slow-release so they do not burn plants. The plant will only use as much of an organic fertilizer as it needs, so they are safe. On a pound-per-pound basis they are generally more expensive than the inorganic fertilizers.
What you will need:
• Glass jar or Coffee can
• Pen or permanent marker
• Tape
Gardeners often find themselves with leftover seeds at the end of the gardening season. Seeds that are not stored properly loose their viability and become worthless. Follow these simple and effective seed storing techniques to ensure that this doesn’t happen to your seeds. Use a glass jar or a coffee can with a tight fitting lid. Old plastic film canisters may also work.
First, seal your open seed packets with tape so the contents will not leak out. Next, mark the packet with the date stored. Then place the packets into your sealable container.
For best results, store the seeds in a refrigerator set between 35 and 45 degrees F. Seed stored in this fashion can last for many years. Test your seeds for viability before planting.
What you will need:
• Paper towels
• Permanent marker
• Sealable plastic bag
• Spray bottle
This simple technique is used by commercial seed houses to check the viability, or germination time, of their seeds. Here is how you can do it yourself. First, dampen a thick paper towel with warm water. Next, spread about 10 seeds on the paper towel and carefully fold it up. (Using 10 seeds lets you easily calculate what percentage of them will germinate. This helps you know how thickly or thinly to sow your seeds to achieve the desired results.)
Then, place the dampened paper towel with the seeds in a plastic bag and seal it. Using a permanent marker, record the date the seeds were placed on the towel and place the plastic bag in a warm room until the seeds begin to germinate.
Check the bag in one week and then again one week later. If the seeds are viable, the majority of them will have germinated by then.
What you will need:
• 4" pot
• Bowl for soaking the seed
• Healthy unblemished avocado seed
• Potting soil
• Propagator
• Sharp clean knife
Soak the avocado seeds in hot water for about 30 minutes. This will inhibit avocado root rot. Prepare the seeds for planting by cutting ½ inch off the tip of the pointed end. Plant each seed in a pot of moist, sandy seedling mix so that the top of the seed is just above the surface. Place the pots in a propagation tray. It should take several weeks for the seeds to germinate.
What you will need:
• 6" pot
• Knife
• Pineapple
• Potting soil
It's a fascinating project to produce a new pineapple plant from a discarded part of the fruit. Use a sharp knife to remove the top 2" of the pineapple fruit. Let this piece air dry for two days.
Bury it in potting soil up to the bottom of the leaves. Firm the soil around this top or tip cutting. Keep the soil damp, but not soggy, and place the pot in a warm, 21 to 27 degrees Celsius (70 to 80 deg. F), sunny spot. Growth of new leaves will start in several weeks. If you are lucky, the plant will fruit again in about two years.
What you will need:
• 1 quart glass jar
• Cheesecloth
• Rubber band
• Seeds
Edible vegetable seeds can be easily sprouted using a glass or ceramic jar and some cheesecloth. Start by placing the seeds in a jar and covering them with some warm water. You want about four times the volume of the seeds worth of water in the jar.
Let the seeds soak overnight. Remove any floating seeds from the jar. Any seeds that do not sink to the bottom of the jar after soaking for a few hours won't sprout.
Cover the opening of the jar with cheesecloth and secure it in place with a rubber band. Carefully pour out the water. The seeds will need to be rinsed two to three times a day to keep them moist and to prevent them from rotting. Simply pour some water through the cheesecloth, swirl it around gently, and pour it out.
The seeds need to be kept in the dark to sprout, so if you are using a clear jar, cover it with a towel or put it in a cupboard. It should take 3-5 days for the seeds to start sprouting. Keep rinsing them regularly until they are ready to eat.
What you will need:
• A pack or small pot filled with potting soil
• Small dibbler
• Spray bottle
Water the tray of seedlings thoroughly to loosen the soil. Using a small dibbler, extract the seedling from the tray. The seedling should have a small amount of soil still attached to the root.
Make an appropriately sized hole in the pack you're transplanting to, and insert the seedling. Firm the soil around the seedling, and water with a spray bottle.
What you will need:
• Newspaper
• Nursery flat or beer/pop can flat
• Paper pot maker
• Scissors
A simple wooden device called a paper pot maker allows you to make 2-½" pots from strips of newspaper. Although you may also make a wooden cylinder of the same dimensions. These recycled pots are great for starting seeds. To make a pot, begin by cutting a strip of newspaper about 4" wide and 10" long.
Wrap the newspaper around the cylinder of the paper pot maker twice. Put the top edge of the newspaper even with the top edge of the cylinder. Fold the lip of newspaper extending past the lower edge of the cylinder over the bottom of the cylinder.
Press the cylinder into the base. Stand up and push down hard to ensure the paper is properly crimped over the bottom. Then slide the newspaper off the cylinder, and you have created your first paper pot.
Paper pots are easier to water and transport if kept in a tray or flat. Continue to make pots until you have enough to fill at least one flat. Then fill the pots with soilless potting mix, sow your seeds, and water thoroughly.
What you will need:
• Capillary matting
• Coco-fiber
• Compost or worm castings
• Gelatin
• Large plastic tub
• Sand
• Seedling tray
• Soil block maker
• Soil sieve
• Spray bottle
Planting seeds directly in soil blocks is an easy, inexpensive way to start seedlings. The most important factor is the mix. Commercial seedling mixes work just fine, as do home mixes. Try this recipe as a starting point, then develop your own ideal mix.
• 2-½ parts coco-fiber
• 2 parts worm castings or screened compost
• 1 part sand
Soak the coco-fiber in warm water for about 10 minutes. Mix in a packet of unflavored gelatin dissolved in water for every six quarts of substrate. This will help it to stick together.
Run compost and sand through a soil sieve to remove any large particles. Large pieces of bark or rock affect the cohesion of the mix, resulting in cubes that break apart easily. Once the screening is completed, mix the compost and sand with the coco-fiber.
Load the soil in the block maker by pressing it down a few times. For extra firmness, pack the soil in with your hand after you have filled the blocks.
To avoid moving the blocks after they are made, place the block maker directly in the germination tray. Capillary matting is recommended for watering the blocks as watering from above often causes the blocks to break apart. Otherwise, water by misting the blocks with a fine spray of water. Press down on the plunger and lift up on the block maker to release the cube.
Dip the soil block maker in water between sessions. This helps the blocks release from the block maker. After you finish making your blocks, wash any excess mix off the block maker and let it drip dry.
First, you will want to water the plants thoroughly to make them easier to remove from the pack. Then you can remove the individual plants by squeezing firmly under the bottom of each section and slowly push them out.
Usually several plants will have grown together. To separate them and their roots, slowly ease them apart.
Dig a hole that is large enough to accommodate the plant's root ball. The plants should be set at the same depth that they were previously growing.
Dig a hole, place the plant in the hole, and cover the hole with soil around it. Make sure that only the roots are under the soil.
To finish, water the plants.
What you will need:
• Assorted plants
• Gravel or small rocks
• Large ceramic or plastic container
• Mixed soil
• Time release fertilizer/ manure/ compost dirt
First, add about 1/2 inch of gravel in the bottom of the container. This allows he plants to drain with ease. Next, fill the container about 3/4 of the way up with soil. Then, place you chosen plants in the container. Try to keep plants with similar needs in the same container. (Eg. Only plants that need a lot of sun in one container. Plants that like a lot of water in another…)
Follow the directions for ‘Planting from a Pack’ to plant in a container.
What you will need:
• Fertilizer/ manure/ compost dirt
• Gravel or small rocks
• Large pot
• Soil
• Various vegetable seeds or transplants
Vegetables suitable for container growing include cucumbers, eggplants, lettuce, leeks, onions, tomatoes, peppers and various herbs.
Vegetables need at least 6-8" of soil depth in order to form a healthy root system, so choose large and deep containers. Make sure the container has drainage holes.
Well-drained soil is a must for all types of vegetables. So, cover the bottom of the container with small rocks or coarse gravel.
Use water retentive soil rich in organic matter. Create a potting mix. You can do this by mixing soil and compost dirt along with peat moss. Adding fertilizer to the top 4-5" of soil before planting will give your transplants and seedlings a boost.
After you fill the container with the potting soil, directly sow seeds of quick growing vegetables like lettuce. Transplant seedlings of larger, slower growing vegetables like tomatoes and peppers.
Vegetables require ample moisture, especially those grown in containers. Water as needed during the summer; usually at least once a day. When you apply water, be sure to thoroughly drench the potting soil. The container should be placed in a spot that gets at least six hours of sunlight a day.
What you will need:
• 1” pipe and cap
• Drill or something to puncture holes into pipe
• Gravel or small rocks
• Plants
• Potting soil
• Slow release fertilizer
• Strawberry pot
Start by placing gravel or small rocks in the bottom of the strawberry pot for drainage.
Next, fill the strawberry pot with soil up to the bottom of the first set of planting holes. Mixing some fertilizer into the soil that you use for planting will help give your plants a boost.
Next, drill holes in the sides of the pipe and place cap side down in the potter so that it rests on the gravel. The pipe should be taller than the potter. Also, the soil should hold the pipe in place. Now, when you need to water your strawberry pot, you can simply fill the tube with water several times to evenly water the plants.
Now you're ready to start planting your plants. With one hand on the plant's roots, lower a plant into a mouth of the pot and use your other hand to guide the foliage through the hole. Add a little more soil to the planting hole to secure the plant in place, if necessary.
To continue, fill the strawberry pot with soil up to the next set of holes, plant more plants, and repeat the process until you reach the top of the planter. Place a few plants on the top of the planter to finish. Enjoy!
What you will need:
• Assorted 4" herbs
• Crock
• Potting soil
• Slow release fertilizer
• Strawberry pot
First, place some crock in the bottom of the pot. The crock will aid in drainage and keep the herbs from getting wet roots.
Next, fill the pot with soil up to the level of the first planting holes. Mix a couple tablespoons of slow release fertilizer into the soil.
Now you're ready to start planting the herbs. The best way to plant a strawberry pot is to lower each plant into the pot and then carefully guide the foliage through the planting holes. Firm the plants in, adding more soil as necessary. If you are using a pot with multiple levels of planting holes, add more soil up to the next pockets and repeat this step until they are all filled.
After all the herbs have been planted in their respective pockets, fill the container the rest of the way up with soil. The last step is planting some herbs in the top of the pot. For a small container, one plant is about all you have room for. Larger pots can accommodate more plants. Firm in the last plant and water the container thoroughly.
What you will need:
• Potting soil
• Sphagnum moss
• Wire hanging basket form
• Various plants
The first step is to moisten some moss and press it into the bottom of the basket. , Next, add enough soil to cover the moss, nearly to the top.
Place plants on the inside of the potter, the outside of the potter, or as a combination of the two to fill the potter. Water the basket thoroughly and it's finished. Be aware that moss lined baskets have a tendency to dry out quickly, so be sure to water your moss potters frequently.
What you will need:
• Planting Pot
• Sand
• Seedling mix
• Sharp knife
First dig up the plant and wash the roots. Select the roots about the thickness of a pencil and cut them off near the base of the plant.
Next, trim the roots to around 4" in length. Make a straight cut on the side that was closest to the crown. Make a diagonal cut on the other end.
Then, fill a planting pot with moist seedling mix. Make several holes in the planting medium with a pencil and insert the cuttings, with the end that was closest to the crown facing upwards. Push the cuttings into the soil so that the tops of the cuttings are flush with the surface of the soil mix.
To finish, place 1/2" of sand on top. Once the cuttings have started producing shoots, lift the plants and pot them individually.
If you are taking cuttings from plants with thinner roots, lay them horizontally in a tray filled with moist seedling mix. Cover the cuttings with soil mix and firm them in.
What you will need:
• Plant potter
• Pruning shears
• Sand
• Shovel
• Twist ties
Taking cuttings in the late fall or early winter, after the leaves have dropped and the plant is dormant, is one of the easiest ways to propagate deciduous shrubs and trees. Look for shoots, about the thickness of a pencil, which were produced during the current growing season and cut them at the base with pruning shears.
Next, trim the shoots with a sharp knife into cuttings 6-10" long, each with about 2-6 buds on them. The shoot should be cut just below a bud at the bottom of each cutting and just above a bud at the top. DO NOT confuse the top and bottom. A cutting that is set into the soil upside down won't root properly.
The best soil for rooting cuttings is light and sandy. If your soil is heavy, work in plenty of organic matter. Dig a narrow trench. The area for the clippings to grow should be very sunny and protected from wind.
Set the cuttings, bottoms down, in the trench, space them 3-4" apart, and shovel the soil back into the trench. Only the top third of the cuttings should be above ground (3 inches). Firm the soil and water the cuttings thoroughly to ensure that they are in contact with the soil. (This will remove any air pockets) The cuttings should begin to grow as temperatures get warmer. Leaves and shoots should also become apparent. Within 1-2 years, you should have healthy young trees, ready for transplanting.
Employing the proper technique when digging will make working in the garden a much more enjoyable experience, not to mention a lot less tiring.
First, position your shovel so that the shaft is resting on your back leg. This will distribute the weight of the material over your legs and not your back. Your thumbs should be facing upward and pointing towards the blade.
Keeping your back straight and the shovel resting on your leg, rock forward. All the movement should be in your legs and hips. Once you have a shovel full of material, rock backwards in the same motion.
To clear the shovel, lower your back arm and pivot your hips in the direction that you wish to dump the material. The shaft of the shovel should be pivoting on your back leg. The most important things to remember when digging is to keep your back straight and to keep the handle of the shovel resting on your leg.
What you will need:
• 2- 4' 2X12's
• 2- 8' 2x12's
• 6- 2' stakes
• 8- L brackets(with four holes)
• 32- 1¼" wood screws
• 10- 3" wood screws
• Drill
• Rubber mallet
• Shovel
• Skillsaw
First, mount the L brackets to the 4' lengths of wood. Using a drill and the 1¼" screws, fasten the brackets about six inches apart from one another. Mount two brackets on each end.
Next, attach the 4' lengths of wood to the 8' lengths of wood. Place one stake on each corner and one in the middle of each of the 8' pieces of wood. Pound them into the ground. Drill one 3" screw into each of the middle stakes and two screws into each corner stake. Place the screws kitty-corner to one another so each board is supported by one screw.
Finally, fill the bed with a good mix of soil.
What you will need:
• Clamps
• Damp cloth
• Drill
• Exterior wood screws
• Pencil
• Saw
• Straight edge
• Wood
• Wood glue
With just a few simple tools and supplies, and a half an hour of free time, you can build this simple window box planter. First, you will need to measure the five pieces of the window box on the wood you have selected. Measure the front and back so that they equal the length of the window, and I recommend that the sides measure somewhere between 6-9 inches. The total height should be no larger than a foot (12 inches).
So, you will need to measure, a front and back board (2 of equal length, height and width), 2 sides (of equal height, length and width), and a bottom (height equal the front and back boards, length equal the sides).
Cut the lumber to size. On the section that is to be the bottom of the box, drill a series of drainage holes. Arrange the pieces to be put together, glue the edges that will be stuck together, and clamp them together. (The side walls should be inset between the front, back and bottom pieces.)
Drill pilot holes into the walls. This will keep the wood from splitting when you screw them together. Fasten the walls together with exterior wood screws, remove the clamps, and wipe off the excess glue with a moist cloth.
Mount your window box with bolts or hardware available at your local nursery or home center.
What you will need:
• 3- 6' to 8' bamboo stakes
• Lashing cord
• Scissors
Lay two 6 to 8' bamboo stakes on the ground at a 15 degree angle. Use a 4 to 5' length of twine. Wrap the twine around each stake in an alternating figure eight pattern. Don't wrap the twine too tight or it will be difficult to adjust the angle of the stakes when you're finished. Use a double knot to tie off the lashing when you run out of twine.
Stand up the two stakes, and place a third stake in the V formed at the intersection of the two pieces of bamboo. Use another 4 to 5' length of twine to attach this stake to the other two, again with a double knot.
Wrap the twine around all three stakes, alternating wraps around each stake. Tie off the ends when you run out of twine, and the trellis is finished.
What you will need:
• 5 ft. wide concrete reinforcing wire
• 6 ft. wooden stakes
• Bolt cutters
• Cinder blocks
• Mallet or hammer
• Spray enamel (optional)
• Utility wire
First, unroll the wire and weigh it down with concrete blocks to hold in place. Use bolt cutters to cut 15 ft. of wire. Sever the bottom row of horizontal wire along one end of the mesh. This will help anchor the cage in the soil.
Next, remove the concrete blocks and stand the wire upright. Form a cylinder with the wire and lash the ends together using medium gauge utility wire.
Paint the cage with two coats of spray enamel if you want to ensure that the cage doesn't rust. Once the enamel has dried, place the cage over your tomato plant. Pound wooden stakes into the ground on either side of the cage to offer additional support.
What you will need:
• Cardboard box
• Hand pruners
• Newspaper
• Pruning knife
Tomatoes are warm weather crops. Once the temperature has dropped to an average of 10ºC (50ºF), tomatoes must be harvested or they won't ripen properly. Harvest your tomatoes and let them ripen indoors so they don't spoil.
First, determine if your tomatoes are ready to be harvested. While tomatoes don't need to be red (ripe) to be harvested, they do need to be mature. A slight blush of color is usually a good sign of maturity.
If you aren't sure which tomatoes are mature, select a tomato and cut it in half with a sharp knife. Look at the seeds. If they have a coating of jelly around them, the tomato is mature. Use the blush on that tomato as a guide to which others to harvest. Leave immature ones on the vine and check them weekly.
Once you have determined which tomatoes are ready to be harvested, remove them from the plant. Inspect each tomato for blemishes or bruising. Discard any that show damage, as they are likely to rot or use them immediately.
Wrap tomatoes individually in newspaper and arrange them in a single layer in a cardboard box. Place the box in a room with a stable temperature of 18-24ºC (65-75ºF). The tomatoes should ripen quickly in these conditions. If you don't want them to ripen all at once, put the box in a cooler location (but no cooler than 13ºC (55ºF) and bring out a few at a time to ripen in the warmer temperatures. Check the tomatoes every few days to see how ripe they are. When they are evenly red, they are ready to be used.
What you will need:
• Hand pruners
• Pot and saucer
• Potting soil
• Shovel
Overwintering herbs like lemon grass, lemon verbena, basil, or other tender herbs is a good idea to do when you hear of a frost warning coming. Do this by placing them in pots indoors. Start by cutting back the foliage as necessary to fit on a windowsill. Check closely for insects. No matter how much you want to keep the plant, you don't want to introduce pests into your house.
Next, carefully dig up the plant and shake off the excess soil. If the roots are too extensive to fit into the pot you've selected, prune them as needed. Your plant may now look like a shadow of its former self, but it should recover quickly.
Moisten the potting mix and put a layer in the bottom of the pot. Set the plant in the pot and fill in with more potting mix. You want the crown, the point where roots and stems meet, to be level with the surface of the mix. Water thoroughly.
Place in a sunny window and treat as a houseplant. It may produce long, lanky growth, but it will survive the dark days of winter. After the danger of frost passes, prune the plant hard and set it outdoors, acclimating it slowly to wind and sun. In about a week, replant it in the garden. In a month or so, it will be its beautiful self again.
What you will need:
• Opaque glass or ceramic jar
• Pruning shears
• Twine
The best time to harvest herbs is in the morning. Sunlight and heat deteriorate the herb's essential oils, so avoid harvesting at midday. Select only healthy undamaged shoots for harvesting.
Find a warm, dry place to hang the herbs. Tie the stalks together and hang the bundles upside down to dry. After the herbs are sufficiently dry, strip the foliage from the stalks.
Exposure to light degrades the flavor and aroma of herbs, so it's best store the dried herbs in opaque ceramic containers or dark glass jars.
What you will need:
• Bricks
• Pruners
• Window screen
Harvest the herbs on a dry day after the morning dew has evaporated. In a dark, dry, well-ventilated place like an attic, elevate the screen to allow air to flow over, under, and around it. Arrange the herbs in a single layer on the screen. You may strip the leaves from herbs such as basil and sage before drying. Herbs like rosemary and thyme are easier to handle with the leaves on the stem. Depending on factors like air temperature and humidity, the leaves should be dry in 7 to 10 days. The herbs are dry when they crumble when touched.
What you will need:
• Fresh herbs
• Glass bottle
• Olive, peanut, or other vegetable oil
• Strainer
Delicious herb oils can be made by using your favorite culinary herbs individually or in combination. For instance, oregano, basil, 1 garlic clove, and 1 chile pepper when combined, flavor oil nicely. To one cup herbs, add 1 quart good quality olive oil, peanut oil, or other vegetable oil. Make sure all herbs are covered with oil or mold will develop.
After 2 weeks, strain the oil and pour into appropriate glass bottles. Herb oils must be refrigerated. Use on salads, pastas, and for grilling fish, chicken, and vegetables.
What you will need:
• Fresh herbs
• Glass bottle
• Strainer
• White or red vinegar
Use individual herbs, such as basil, or a combination like oregano, basil, and parsley to make flavorful herb vinegars. Use white or red wine vinegar depending on which herbs you are using and your personal preference. Warm the vinegar being careful not to boil it. Fill a glass jar with the herbs and vinegar using about 1 1/2 cups of fresh herbs for every quart of vinegar. When cool, cover the vinegar and set it aside. In about two weeks the vinegar should be nicely flavored. Strain the vinegar into glass bottles. Add a fresh sprig of the herb used for flavoring to decorate the bottle.
What you will need:
• Boiling water
• Fresh or dried herbs
• Lemon and honey
• Tea cozy or towel
• Teapot
To make a perfect pot of herb tea, start by filling a teapot with boiling water to warm it. Drain the pot and add 1 tablespoon of dried herbs or 2 tablespoons of fresh herbs for each 8-ounce serving. Add boiling water to the herbs in the pot and replace the lid.
Cover the teapot with a tea cozy or a towel to keep it hot and to keep the flavorful essential oils from escaping with the steam. Let steep at least 5 minutes. Pour tea through a strainer into tea cups and serve with honey or lemon.
Having the right hand tools is very important in gardening. Buy the best quality you can afford. Be sure to choose a sturdy hand trowel of cast steel, aluminum, or forged steel. Avoid cheaper trowels made of stamped steel which will bend easily under the strain of heavy soil.
A good quality long-handled pointed shovel is essential for general digging. Try to get one with a reinforced spine.
A spade is useful for digging trees and shrubs, shaping root balls, and digging trenches. Choose tempered steel for best edge holding or stainless steel for rust resistance.
A garden fork is an essential tool for turning over soil. Make sure to get one with sturdy tines that won't bend easily.
There are many different types of hoes on the market. All of them will do the job as long as they are sturdy. Remember that a hoe is not an excavating tool. It is used to shear off weeds. Make sure your hoe is always sharp.
A steel rake is useful for grading and smoothing seedbeds and for removing rocks and other debris from prepared garden soil.
A bastard file is another essential garden tool. Use it to sharpen the blades of shovels and hoes.
What you will need:
• Boiled linseed oil
• Light machine oil
• Nylon scrubber
• Rags
• Sandpaper(150 grit)
• Wire brush
Most tools require some periodic maintenance to keep them in good working order. Always spray any dirt or mud off of tools once you are finished working. A nylon scrubber or a wire brush works well for removing stubborn dried-on mud. Always dry your tools after washing them. Putting a tool away wet will result with a rust problem.
If you do end up with a little rust on a tool, apply a small amount of light machine oil to the metal surfaces and scrub the entire rusted area with a wire brush. With a little work, the metal should look like new again.
If you end up with a serious rust problem on a tool, try using a rust dissolver to remove it. Whatever rust remians can easily be removed with a wire brush.
Wood handles need a little special care. Once a year, lightly sand the entire handle with fine sandpaper. Next, apply some boiled linseed oil to a rag and rub it into the handle. The oil will help to seal the wood and keep it free of splinters.
It's best to hang tools in a dry place when not in use. Making or purchasing a tool rack to hang your tools from not only helps to preserve your tools, but also keeps them out of your way when not in use.Before you put your tools away for the winter, wipe any metal parts with a generous coating of light machine oil. If you notice that any of your tools have become dull and need sharpening, taking care of it now will ensure that when it comes time for spring planting, your tools will be up for the task.
Basin watering keeps needed water around the plant and prevents soil erosion. Build by collecting soil with your hands and forming a 'ring'. Fill the resulting basin with water.
Pot watering will ensure that your plants receive a deep watering. In addition, pot watering ensures that the nutrients and mineral contained in the soil are not washed away. Bury a pot next to your plants root ball and fill it with water. It is not necessary to remove the pot. Simply leave it in place and fill it with water whenever your plants need a drink.
If you have not yet considered an outdoor fountain for your garden, you are missing out on an extremely versatile and aesthetically pleasing addition. Many people have a rigid and out-of-date conception of garden fountains. They do not have to be large and bulky or be the centerpiece of the yard; although that is an option, if you so desire. But there are many more places for them. Outdoor fountains can fill a drab corner, enliven a walkway, accessorize your deck, or elegantly grace the center of your garden.
Why would you want to spend money a garden fountain? There are a wide variety of reasons. If you are interested in creating an aesthetically pleasing garden, nothing will round out your masterpiece like an outdoor fountain. Flowing water contributes to the serenity of a garden, bringing calm and tranquility. Even if you don't have a beautiful yard, and aren't interested in doing the work to design one, garden fountains are an easy, effective alternative. They can be centrally placed to draw immediate attention, or located on the periphery to softly enliven the surroundings.
The incredible array of styles and materials makes outdoor fountains even more customizable. Firstly, you will want to consider the size of your garden. If you have a rather large yard, you will want to compliment it with a somewhat larger fountain. However, if you have a small or medium sized yard, you will not want to make it appear even smaller by dwarfing it with an oversized garden fountain. If your yard is extremely small, you may even want to consider a wall fountain, which will take up less space.
Next, you will want to consider the style of the fountain. You should either choose your outdoor fountain based on your furniture, or vice versa, but definitely ensure that all elements of the garden are compatible with the overall décor. This is especially true for smaller spaces, which are much less forgiving than larger ones. You will also want to consider the plants you choose to surround your fountain; generally, the taller the better.
Then you will want to select a material. Garden fountains are generally made from fiberglass, wood, copper, porcelain or concrete. If you are going for quality, and price is not a huge consideration, you will want an outdoor fountain made out of concrete or ceramic, which are considered the best.
Finally, you must consider placement. Hopefully, the material above helped you in deciding which type of fountain you wish to have in your garden. However, if you choose to put your garden fountain on the ground, there is one very important thing to keep in mind. Uneven water flow is one of the most common problems with outdoor fountains when placed on the ground. You can avoid this by placing the fountain on level ground which is completely solid, to avoid sinking.
Hanging wall fountains originated in ancient Rome, where they were actually used to bring fresh drinking water to the citizens of that great city. Modern plumbing has made them unnecessary for this use, but a water fountain can still be a visually stunning addition to your home. Adding the calming sound of flowing water to your home can be just the thing you need to bring relaxation and tranquility after a long day.
A wall fountain can be placed indoors or outdoors, adding to the diverse possibilities of this already very flexible fixture. These types of fountains might also be ideal for families with small children or pets, who would rather have a fountain on the wall than a floor fountain or one of the other types of water fountains. The ability to place them on the wall adds an incredible amount of options when choosing the location of your fountain.
However, before you decide where to place your water fountain, you have to choose the style that is right for your needs and desires. You have a wide array of options when choosing your material. Wall fountains are made from slate, copper, stone, stainless steel, glass, among others. Which material you chose will depend on your particular tastes, the existing décor of your home, your budget and how heavy you want your fountain to be. Water fountains also come in a variety of styles such as Asian, Italian, and modern. Your choice will once again probably be dictated by monetary concerns and the style of your house.
Remember that the weight of your fountain is something you are really going to need to consider. If you can lift heavy objects, have people who can who are willing to help you, or are able to pay for your wall fountain to be moved, than this might not be such a huge consideration. But if you don't, definitely consider the weight of your new fountain and whether or not you will be able to handle it. The weight of water fountains is dependant on their size and material. A slate fountain is going to weigh considerably more than one made out of copper or acrylic.
Surrounding your water fountain with plants can create a luscious, living garden environment in your backyard or patio area. Experiment with different colored flowers , which can really augment the beauty of your garden. Wall fountains are extremely versatile. Mix and match styles and materials until you create the perfect ambiance, straight out of your imagination. Be sure to shop around for the fountain that will complement your existing decor.
Wherever you choose to put your wall fountain, you will not be disappointed. It will immediately improve its surroundings, as well as your feeling of peace and serenity. Water fountains can also enhance your sleep by emanating the deeply relaxing sound of trickling water throughout your bedroom. No other amenity can add these benefits together with the beautiful aesthetics of a fountain.
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